Sunday, June 10, 2007

More edgecombe routes

Bouldered with SM and ER at edgecombe and then finished off the day trying to figure some moves on wet arete(5.10?), this problem will go, just one move at a time :-)
Here are some of the routes (all 5.5-6ish) we did at edgecombe north, in section1(&2&3) northern end from r to l on the picture.
Warmup slab: see previous post
Away to Texas: Start on the r. side of the arete, step into the small ledge and layback over the bulge to the top.
Itsy bitsy:Follow the crimps close to and either side of the line of the 1st b/hole.
Slippery paint: sitdown start(sds) to left of 2nd b/h, go up and then diagonally left to end just past 1st b/h.
Audience: start as with slippery paint, and move up thru obvious "flakes" to top out right of 2nd b/h.
highball: see previous post, just right of 3rd b/h.
recliner: r of 4th b/h, use layback crimps to gain obvious "flake" and then top out(avoiding the fakeout top).
Follow the crack: The name speaks for itself, sds in 2nd section(concrete) at low end of prominent diagonal crack behind 2nd bench, follow leftwards, over the fence, to top out just past 1st b/h.
Underoverunder: R of the 2nd b/h in the 3rd section(grass), climbing the obvious mini overhang and directly up thru the sparse slab above (without using the flakes/crimps). Variations, R and L use the flakes and crimps respectively, no pic yet.

ER on Recliner

SM on Shoot the moon, edgecombe south.

Wet Arete (great spotting :P)
and a slight varation.

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