Saturday, June 23, 2007

Ft. tryon pics and beta

Went to Ft. Tryon this morning with EM. Started by playing on the pathway boulders, see earlier. Because this is one of the main ways to the cloisters it gets a lot of foot traffic and "ohh are you climbing that?!" comments. But on the upside it means the glass/litter and dog shite counts are super low.....must keep it kleen and shiny for those tourists :-D We were interrupted twice the 1st was by two park warden guys in a pickup, but really they "would prefer if we didn't climb" but we explained the ccc and the parks deal. The next was by a volunteer, in her brown parks'n'recs cap, she asked us not to b/c it would encourage children to copy us, not like the brats don't run a mock all over the anyway! On reflection I think you can buy those brown caps at the cloister shop so she might just have been cranky and we happened to get in her way.
Below are north and south shots of the long boulder, with a traverse, great crack and a fair few other lines.

Then just around the corner is a cluster of boulders, on the right is a small overhanging boulder with a couple of variations on a traverse (+/- the small face on the left) to top out. The big block next to this has a great line on the face and up the prow, both doable but v2/3+. There are a number of other boulders on the path leading back up to the road, I didn't look at these as yet.
Since we were annoyed with the crankycrazyness we packed off out of sight, following the path under the bridge to the dotted south area, and a little way past the bridge on the left is this boulder. It is mainly over hanging and there are multiple hard lines, some chalked up. ha! There are others it is not just me up here. This boulder is on a bit of a slope with a fairly low glass count, and an earthy soft dirt landing, conclusion it looks wicked fun and is worth a second trip for the V2++ climbing.

An note on Harlem River Drwy

On thursday a week or so ago, SM and I started at 155th and moved down the hill trying out each of the faces along harlem river drwy. Although the routes look great, and certainly have potential, the rock is sometimes flakey and handholds tend to pop off making for some exciting bouldering. We tried most of boulders from 155th to the wet arete area. The long and the short of it is other than the great arete problem I'm am not inclined to hit this area up again as it is not as great as I originally thought. I would like to check out the dilapidated stair area since we didn't stop there to the
way down.
We also ventured past the wet arete to harlem river dr. The sidewalk dead ends into a wood land in which there are some more boulders. This includes the cave boulder, for which all I can say is urgh. Someone has used it as a firepit and the whole thing is charcoaled. There are several other big boulders back here but the traffic noise and the whole we're going to "step on a deadbody" is true and a little freaky. We moved up the slope trying a few boulder en route and end up level with about 164th and just north of the edgecombe backside boulder. This area is still sketchy even with 2 of us, we definitely saw a crackhead wandering into the woods.
We finished off the afternoon with a few climbs on edgecombe north.
2 dollar crack (5.5?): sds in 6th? section(concrete) at low end of prominent diagonal crack behind 2nd bench, follow leftwards, over the fence, to top out just past 1st b/h.
5 dollar crack (5.4?) follow the other diagonal prominent crack
up the nose (5.5?): In the 5th section move up and onto the nose from the right or left(variations).

Sunday, June 10, 2007

More edgecombe routes

Bouldered with SM and ER at edgecombe and then finished off the day trying to figure some moves on wet arete(5.10?), this problem will go, just one move at a time :-)
Here are some of the routes (all 5.5-6ish) we did at edgecombe north, in section1(&2&3) northern end from r to l on the picture.
Warmup slab: see previous post
Away to Texas: Start on the r. side of the arete, step into the small ledge and layback over the bulge to the top.
Itsy bitsy:Follow the crimps close to and either side of the line of the 1st b/hole.
Slippery paint: sitdown start(sds) to left of 2nd b/h, go up and then diagonally left to end just past 1st b/h.
Audience: start as with slippery paint, and move up thru obvious "flakes" to top out right of 2nd b/h.
highball: see previous post, just right of 3rd b/h.
recliner: r of 4th b/h, use layback crimps to gain obvious "flake" and then top out(avoiding the fakeout top).
Follow the crack: The name speaks for itself, sds in 2nd section(concrete) at low end of prominent diagonal crack behind 2nd bench, follow leftwards, over the fence, to top out just past 1st b/h.
Underoverunder: R of the 2nd b/h in the 3rd section(grass), climbing the obvious mini overhang and directly up thru the sparse slab above (without using the flakes/crimps). Variations, R and L use the flakes and crimps respectively, no pic yet.

ER on Recliner

SM on Shoot the moon, edgecombe south.

Wet Arete (great spotting :P)
and a slight varation.

Saturday, June 2, 2007

deja vu?

So I was looking up van courtland, inwood and ft. tryon bouldering on the web and came across some interesting sites. It turns out I'm not the only one (what a suprise) to try and find/list new climbs up here in northern manhattan, just proving that all the lines have been done before and we can never know the history of these rocks properly.
Check out;
zero friction
scott snelling blog